Guide to Zanzibar's beaches

ZANZIBAR: Stone Town

You don’t come to Stone Town, in the south-west, for the beaches. Local people swim here, but visitors tend not to - for them it’s the history and architecture, palaces and markets that are the focus.

Most of the hotels and guest houses in the town are in the warren of little streets, however if you want to get more of a taste of the sea whilst you’re here, head to the Zanzibar Serena Inn which is set in one of the oldest buildings here, or to the Park Hyatt, both right on the edge of the Indian Ocean.

If you head about 25 minutes north of the town you come to another ocean-side resort, the Seacliff, which, whilst it doesn’t have a beach worth mentioning, is good value, has a lovely position, two great pools and a wooden walkway to a large jetty out in the ocean.

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ZANZIBAR: Nungwi Beach

The northern tip is one of the busiest parts of the island, with Nungwi at its heart. Very popular with tourists, Nungwi is a lively village, which is great if you want to enjoy some nightlife. Nungwi is known as a bit of a party destination, but you won’t find too much Ibiza-style freneticism here, although the full moon beach parties are energetic. Head east around the coast a little and you’ll find the part of Nungwi that is more peaceful – perfect for relaxing in a calm atmosphere.

Nungwi is stunning – it’s one of the best beaches on Zanzibar. It has all the attractions of pale sand and crystal-clear water, with dramatic rock formations, and there is a turtle sanctuary that’s good to visit. Also, Nungwi is not overly affected by the tides, so it’s wonderful for swimming at any time of day, though you need to be careful not to tread on sea urchins at low tide – it’s painful if you do. Some of Zanzibar’s beaches can be marred by the amount of seaweed that washes ashore, but it’s rarely a problem in the north.

Nungwi is surrounded on three sides by water and there are two distinct parts of the beach. The busiest is the one bordered by hotels, bars and restaurants – it’s popular day and night and it can be noisy and the growing visitor numbers and consequent commercialism rob this area of a little of its charm though you can avoid much of it with the right hotel.

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ZANZIBAR: Matemwe beach

Matemwe, in the north-east, is a gorgeous beach. This is a particularly up-market part of the island, and the hotels and lodges reflect that. You might still get approached by beach sellers and touts but there are far fewer here than in Nungwi and Kendwa. In common with many of the east coast beaches, it has a large tidal range so you can’t swim here at low tide without a fairly lengthy walk first, but you can explore the exposed coral flats en-route to swimming-depth water and when the tide is in swimming is superb. Diving is excellent from here, with many dive trips heading over towards beautiful Mnemba Island area.

ZANZIBAR: Pongwe Beach

Further down the east coast from Matemwe is Pongwe. This is quiet and remote – perhaps too remote for some as the only restaurants will be in your lodge or hotel. However, one definite benefit of its remoteness is that the beach sellers don’t usually bother to come out here. If you want an unspoilt, tranquil haven, here it is – it’s great for honeymooners!

On the east coast, swimming isn’t possible at low tide when the water retreats right back to the seaweed farms, so a hotel or lodge with a swimming pool is a must, particularly as Pongwe area’s seabed is quite rocky so paddling isn’t too comfortable. When the tide is high there is still a decent width of sand, so you can still sunbathe.

If you’re into diving or snorkelling, you’ll need to be prepared for a car journey of an hour or so to get to a suitable site.

Happily, Pongwe Beach Lodge is less affected by tides than other places on the east coast due to its position on a cove, and has one of the best little beaches. Book early!

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ZANZIBAR: Paje Beach

Paje is a beautiful beach, where you can surf, windsurf, dive, kitesurf or sail to your heart’s content. There are a good number of bars and coffee shops here and it’s all very cheerful and relaxed. Swimming’s not great at low tide, but it’s good the rest of the day. Consider treating yourself to a visit to the famous Rock Restaurant further north up the coast. A visit to the Seaweed Centre shows you how vital this marine commodity is to the women who farm it locally (these eastern beaches are all affected by some level of seaweed), and if you feel like a kickabout, you could join the locals and visitors for a game of football on the beach in the evening. You will most likely find some beach boys here, as in many places, but it’s not usually too bad. One of the very best hotels in Zanzibar, White Sands, is on this lovely beach.

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ZANZIBAR: Kizimkaze Beach

Kizimkaze is a fishing village on the western side of the southern tip of the island, on the Menai Bay. It has the highest tide in Zanzibar and the sand virtually disappears at high tide so swimming is good here, though you’ll have a bit of a wade to get to a good depth at low tide and there are few places to sunbathe at high tide. Diving and snorkelling are great here, and this is where big deep-sea fish such as tuna get landed and auctioned on the beach. The oldest mosque in East Africa is here and visitors are welcome. Kizimkaze is known for its dolphin tours. However, these are unethical in our view, as large numbers of boats stress and sometimes injure the animals, so we strongly recommend you avoid them.

The further south you get the less the beaches are affected by the tides. South of Michamvi Peninsula used to be one of the busiest areas of the island, particularly with budget travellers, but these now tend to head north, though there are still a reasonable number of backpackers in this area. Kite surfers also come here, as the winds make this region perfect for their sport.

This area is quick to reach from Zanzibar airport and Stone Town, and there are a few really good hotels here.

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MAFIA ISLAND

The cluster of idyllic, peaceful islands that make up the Mafia Archipelago include Mafia, Chole, Juani, Jibondo and Juani islands. Mafia itself is just about 30 miles long by 9 miles wide.
Partly covered in rainforest, grasslands, mangroves and beaches, this area is less visited than Zanzibar and provides the perfect setting for a quiet and peaceful beach holiday with more of a ‘desert island’ feel.
The diving here is exceptional, thanks largely to the Mafia Island Marine Park which protects the coral reefs and it’s far quieter than Zanzibar’s dive sites too. Chole Bay provides secluded and calm waters for snorkellers and divers alike, the shallow coral reef providing shelter for a host of tropical fish, and there are of course the endless sandy beaches lined swaying coconut palms where you can enjoy some R&R.

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THE SWAHILI COAST

On Tanzania’s Swahili Coast, you’re never far from history. Bagamoyo (north of Dar) was where many explorers such as Stanley set out from, though sadly, it was also once a trading port for ivory and some slaves.
Today, the coast offers long stretches of deserted sandy beaches, interesting towns and small fishing villages. If you want somewhere less busy than Zanzibar, this is a good alternative to the smaller islands, and it has some good places to stay.
Saadani National Park offers you coast and wildlife together, though the sea is shallow here so the tide goes out a long way. Just north of Saadani is Pangani. The beaches here are gorgeous and the swimming excellent, though the sea, whilst clean, is not clear here due to the confluence of rivers with the sea. We still love it though, so please don't let that put you off.

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