A Day at Victoria Falls River Lodge

A Day at Victoria Falls River Lodge

A Day at Victoria Falls River Lodge

TRACY EDWARDS

Africa Travel Consultant for Tribes Travel.

An early wake up call at 5:30 for a quick cuppa and a rusk before me and my guide, Billy, jump in his boat as the sun starts to glint over the horizon. My day here is starting with a morning sunrise boat cruise on the Zambezi River. It’s chilly as we cruise along, and the first thing we (he) spots is a hippo retuning to the water after a night of grazing. The sun rises quickly and after a few beautiful photos we feel the warmth on our skin and the birds getting active. White-fronted bee-eaters are busy building their nests, hippos are finding a comfortable spot to wallow for the morning, the African fish eagle is searching for prey and annoying his smaller avian ‘friends’ in neighbouring trees. A croc is on the hunt and the kingfishers are active.

“Back at the lodge in time for my breakfast, having seen this all before 9am.”

TRACY EDWARDS

I have a couple of hours to kill before lunch so I decide to utilise the spa, it would be rude not to try out all the facilities of course! Then it’s a quick visit to the small shop for some handmade crafts before returning to my room to take a quick dip in my plunge pool before readying myself for lunch. This was a delicious affair with a kudu and mango salad as the highlight. Then, pleasantly full, I head back to my room for a doze in the sun on my lounger and an occasional dip in my plunge pool. I can hear hippos grunting and are birds active in the surrounding trees. Can an afternoon get any better?

Yes it can! For I return to the main lodge for a cuppa and biscuit before heading out for a game drive in the Zambezi National Park. Giraffe, zebra, kudu, Impala and elephants all showed themselves happily and we sat watching them graze and go about their business. A lovely brown snake eagle sighting and many smaller birds for which I cannot keep track sadly, before heading back towards the lodge. Just as we turn into camp the guide spots lion tracks and would you believe that just at the very edge of out camp is 2 beautiful lionesses. Incredible!

My day ends with a drink at the bar and a delicious meal, finishing with an Amarula night cap as I head to my room and comfortable bed! I wonder if tomorrow will be the same?

“I wonder if tomorrow will be the same?”

TRACY EDWARDS

Chocolate a divine gift

Chocolate a divine gift

Amanda Marks
TRACY EDWARDS
Tribes Travel Consultant

Costa Rica is an incredible place!
Not only does it have stunning wildlife, pristine beaches and plenty of adventure, but did you know you can also have a genuine cultural experience with indigenous tribes?
I didn’t.

I am always weary about ‘tribal tours’ as many have become a tourist attraction rather than a real look at the local way of life. I was very pleasantly surprised by the Bri Bri tribe and the village tour on my recent trip and think it is a ‘must’ for visitors.

“I’m not sure orange is my colour!”

The Bri Bri reservation is in the province of Limon, approximately 30 mins from Puerto Viejo town and you can do this tour from many of the hotels in this area. You will be accompanied by a bilingual guide and you will quickly find yourself immersed in the middle of the rainforest learning about farming methods, hunting techniques (not practised anymore), medicines from the land, houses and most importantly chocolate – one of their most sacred beliefs is that chocolate, from the cacao plant, is a divine gift which they use for natural medicine and purification rituals as well as for a source of food.

I tried miracle fruit, which is exactly what it’s called, a miracle because it had me eating a whole lime and thinking it tasted delicious. It does something to your taste buds…. for the better. I learnt ‘forest makeup’ with the numerous seeds and plants used for nail polish and eye shadow. I’m not sure orange is my colour but fascinating nonetheless.

Chocolate tour

Where it all begin…the cacao fruit

Then grinded into…….

 

Dried seeds being roasted

Delicious chocolate

Rory crushes the seeds

Sampling our ‘banana sandwich’

Once you’ve seen how the families live and sustain their culture by growing fruits, beans, rice and other native crops, you then learn about chocolate making, a highlight indeed. When I looked at my Dairy Milk bar at home I honestly don’t think about where it came from, but seeing it (and making it) first hand is a wonderful experience. Of course, you get to sample the fruits of your labour with a banana/chocolate ‘sandwich’ followed by some hot chocolate.

At the end of the tour the local families do have a small gift shop where you can purchase hand crafted items, but in no way, are you pressured into buying anything. Your finish your tour a with few minutes’ drive to one of the many beautifully, cool waterfalls where you can relax and enjoy the refreshing water.

Lion Extravaganza

Lion Extravaganza

While lions are found in many big safari places, on a recent trip to the Masai Mara in Kenya, I couldn’t believe quite how many lions I saw on one game drive, let alone the full 5 days I spent there!

Never in my ‘safari life’ have I found myself driving past a lion sighting and barely stopping for more than a few minutes – that’s how frequently we saw them! The Mara offers great wildlife viewing all year round with resident prides remaining in their territories throughout the year.

loads-of-lions

There is a lot of action during the migration season (July to October) when there is so much food around for the lions but my trip was out of season and still fantastic! And, the sightings ranged from large prides, hunting prides, small prides, prides feasting on a kill, lone females, lone males, mating pairs, adolescent cubs to tiny 25-day old cubs! My 5 days there were remarkable.

lion-cubs

For some, the tiny cubs were the best sighting of the trip, but in all my years of heading off on safari, I still find the sight of a fully grown male lion, with his think dark mane and huge, staring yellow eyes, one of the most breathtaking sightings to come across. The sheer size and power of him gives me goose bumps and leaves me driving away with the sense of ‘he’ really is the king of the jungle.

Lion Tracking

So, if lions are your thing, or you just want a fantastic safari experience then the Masai Mara is a hard one to beat!

Migration: An ‘almost’ river crossing

Migration: An ‘almost’ river crossing

Many people have seen the famed river crossings of the annual wildebeest migration on programmes such as BBC wildlife and National Geographic, but what you might not know is how long the build up is before an actual crossing happens. It’s quite an amazing thing to witness.

On a recent visit to the Masai Mara I saw this build-up right from the beginning. We were on a game drive when our guide became a little distracted. He was watching what looked like a dust cloud in the distance but on closer inspection we learned this was one of the tail-end migration herds (approx 2000 strong) and they were heading toward a known crossing point (Paradise Crossing).

We arrived at the crossing point a little way ahead of the herds, anticipation growing with every minute. We watched the first animals head to the water’s edge, sniffing the air and water for danger. Looking nervous, they hovered for a while only to retreated up the banks as more of them poured down poured following suit.

Mara Migration crossing

This is how it went on for almost an hour, with each new wave of animals increasing our anticipation. ‘All it takes is one’, our guide kept saying. Once the first animal crosses, the masses follow in what can only be described as pandemonium.

We spotted a croc in the middle of the river, with 2 more lying on the opposite bank. Now, I was very nervous, being torn between wanting to see one of the greatest wildlife events on the planet, but also not wanting to see just how brutal the crossings can be.

A few zebra were in the shallows with a tiny baby splashing around, completely oblivious to the eyes just under the surface, coming closer and closer. By now I was literally on the edge of my seat wanting to yell at the baby to run away, but also wishing the crossing would happen! 4 nails bitten and counting….!

Then, a couple of adolescent wildebeest came crashing into the water revealing the crocs position and then next thing we saw was a cloud of dust and mud as the herds bolted back up the banks and away from the river.

No crossing for us today! However, the anticipation, excitement and exhilarating spectacle we’d just watched was one of the best ‘almost’ wildlife experiences I’ve ever had!

Best place to see Hippos in Zambia

Best place to see Hippos in Zambia

Kaingo Camp is the best place to see Hippos in Zambia.

Now, you may find  a trip with the hope of seeing hippos to be quite strange since they’re not normally the most sought after animals when you think of a safari.

However, since my recent trip to Zambia, in particular the South Luangwa National Park (SLNP), I have to say the experience has completely changed my perception of these fascinating creatures. Not only does the Luangwa river have one of the highest  concentrations of hippo in Africa, so you see them at almost every visit to the river, but Kaingo camp on the river has a dedicated ‘hippo hide’ where you can get extremely close to the animals, making it the best place to see hippos in Zambia. The hide is re-inforced steel and is built into the riverbank at the confluence where the Luangwa and Mwamba Rivers meet. It plays host to hundreds of breeding and bachelor pods, all jostling for space in the receding river.

Kaingo Camp - Hide, best place to see hippos up close

Hippo Hide – Kaingo Camp


The hide is close to water –level and you’ll find yourself almost face to face with these enormous mammals. To see them this close was a real highlight for me as I’ve only ever seen them from afar, or looking at them down below in a river. Being only a few meters away to them you can see how incredibly large and fearsome they are, the males in particular as they are covered with deep scars and cuts from territorial flights. In my opinion this makes Kaingo camp the best place to see hippo’s in Zambia.

 

hide

Kaingo Camp Hide – From Shentons Safaris

 

 

Hippos can be surprisingly active during the day and they are incredibly loud.  They make a variety of noises from grunting, roars and wheezing sounds. I happily spent a number of hours in the hide and could have stayed for a full day!