The Wilkamayu was a sacred river to the Incas. From its birth at La Raya, between Puno and Cusco, to its junction with the Ucayali (later becoming the mighty Amazon) it is littered with huacas or holy sites. However it is the stretch between Pisaq and Machu Picchu which has become known as the Sacred Valley. Not only did it have symbolic importance, being the terrestrial equivalent of the Milky Way, but it also contains some of the most fertile and, of more relevance, flattest land for the production of the staple Andean cereal, maize.
The Vilcanota river is a meltwater river created by the glaciers at La Raya, about half way between Puno and Cusco. If you are travelling on the train from Puno these can be seen on the right hand side. From a bubbling trickle you can follow the growth of this river right up until a town called Urcos. The railway leaves the river here as you ascend the Huatanay valley to Cusco. The Vilcanota continues on to Pisac.
Pisac
This delightful little village is the highest settlement in the Valley at 2920m. It is characterised by the huge Pisonay trees in the central square, however on the market days (Tues, Thurs, Sun) these are all but hidden by hundreds of stalls.
Another draw of Pisac are the ruins above the town. The stonework here is very impressive, especially in the religious complex, which has an Inti Huatana (hitching post of the sun) similar to Machu Picchu but sadly almost destroyed by the Spanish.
Calca
This is the largest town in the valley. Although this town has little of interest to the tourist it is an original Inca settlement. During Manco Inca’s rebellion of 1536 the Incas made this their first base before retreating to Ollantaytambo. There are thermal baths in Machachanca about 1½ hrs walk from the town. The snowy peaks behind Calca are Pitusiary and Sawasiray.
Yucay
Another Inca settlement, there are still traces of their constructions around the plaza. Again this town has little to offer to the tourist but is a very tranquil place to stay in the valley. The zone from Calca to Yucay was considered to be some of the most fertile land in the valley and thus in the whole Inca range.
Urubamba
Urubamba is not an Inca settlement but its central position in the valley has led to its growth. It is a delightful laid back town with a warmer climate than Cusco enabling palms, fruit trees and Pisonay to grow here. It is a good base from which to explore the rest of the valley. The snow peaks behind Urubamba are Chicon, Illahuaman & Pumahuanca.
The Salt Pans
Between Urubamba and Ollantaytambo is a village called Pichinjoto. From this tiny settlement you can get to the Salineras or salt pans. As with all ancient cultures salt was hugely important, especially for the jungle tribes who lack sodium in their diet. These pans are derived from an underground stream high in mineral content that comes out of the southern hillside of the valley. The water drains into pans created by terracing where the water sits and evaporates leaving thick deposits of salt. The pans have been used for hundreds, if not thousands of years.
Ollantaytambo
This wonderful town is one of the few places that still have the original Inca layout. The ruins at Ollantaytambo are also very impressive. It was to here that Manco Inca retreated in the great revolt against the Spanish. Indeed this is the only place where the Incas won a battle against the Conquistadores.
Chinchero
This was the largest settlement on the plateau between Cusco and the Valley. Chinchero (3750m) was an Inca site characterised by the huge niches on the wall facing the plaza, however it is now most famous for its Sunday market. There is a quaint restored colonial church here too.
Continuing from Chinchero, which is one of the highest points on the route, the road levels off. A few winding bends and you are greeted by one of the most amazing views in the Andes. The valley seems to drop vertically below and the far side looms in front of you. On clear days you can see the huge Chicon, Illahuaman and Pumahuanca snowcaps behind the lower valley walls. The descent from here is hair raising as your road zigzags down the sheer face.
Moray
The best way to describe this pre-Inca site is as an agricultural testing station. It consists of 4 deep depressions, which have been enlarged and terraced, forming parabolic shapes like a radar dishes. This shape enabled the agriculturalists to mimic a number of different climates by changing the aspect, elevation, humidity and soil type, all within the same area.