The first railway built to link Ecuador’s capital Quito in the highlands and its largest city and port Guayaquil on the coast was begun at the end of the 19th century. The most difficult challenge faced in laying the track was a near vertical nub of rock known as the Devil’s Nose 100 miles from Guayaquil. To overcome this, an ingenious series of switchbacks was laid to climb the cliff face, requiring the train to travel both forward and backward as it ascended.
Although services were suspended in the 1990s after a length of the track was washed away, the track has been restored and it is possible to take a train from Riobamba past Chimborazo and descending over 1,000m in altitude to the Devil’s Nose before reversing direction and climbing back to the town of Aluasi where you will be met by your driver. It is possible to ride on the roof of the train for the best views, but be sure to bring protection both against the chill of the highland morning and the fierce heat of the midday sun.
